Does someone who doesn't wear makeup need a complicated beauty routine?

April 2, 2009 1:48 PM

I have sensitive skin and wear no makeup. My skincare regimen has always been sunscreen during the day, washing my face with a soft cloth and water, and moisturizer before bed. Should I be doing more? (e.g., cleanser, toner, soap?)

Recently a friend (who works at a skin care salon) was horrified to hear my skin routine only consisted of water, sunscreen, and moisturizer. She pointed out that my skin looks oily during the day (a side product, I’d always thought, of my SPF 50-70 sunscreen) and that I have dark pores on my nose that she said are “clogged”. She said that I should be using, at a minimum, cleanser and toner 2x daily and said that she uses Dermatologica but also thinks Clarens is good.

She isn’t trying to sell me anything- her salon doesn’t stock Dermatologica or Clarens and I’m trying to figure out if I should be fussing more with my skin. I thought I was treating my skin more gently than other people, and that since I don’t wear makeup I didn’t need to cleanse it of anything. From what I know about skin, I think I have oily/mixed skin type. I’m prone to occasional breakouts and in my late 20’s.

Should I be using more/other products, and if so, what? Thanks!

posted by stewiethegreat to clothing, beauty, & fashion (34 comments total)

I think using a toner is great for my skin - minimizing pores and break-outs. I use Kiehl's cucumber toner for sensitive skin. I love it.

Also, you only use water to wash your face? I think that would make my skin more oily. Try a cleanser. If you like using a soft cloth, Kiehl's milk cleanser for sensitive skin is pretty good. You apply it to dry skin, then remove gently with a wet cloth (then follow up with toner to ensure all cleanser is removed). Ponds cold cream is also very good and works the same way.

Also, why do you use such a high SPF? The concoctions required to get that into solution will definitely result in oily skin with clogged pores. SPF 30 works fine. You are getting literally only fractions of a percent increase in protection against UV rays by going higher. Google it if you don't believe me.
posted by sickinthehead at 1:53 PM on April 2

I have basically the same routine, except that my sunscreen is only SPF 30 (for the reasons mentioned above. SPF 30 is approximately the same strength as anything higher). My skin is great.

If you're worried about the breakouts or oiliness, you could try a mild cleanser (Cetaphil is a very gentle, inexpensive drugstore brand that most people swear works as well as the pricey stuff). But if you're happy, don't worry about it.
posted by decathecting at 1:58 PM on April 2

If you have blackheads (dark nose pores), use Biore strips- FUN!

If your skin is oily during the day, you should use cleanser to cut the oil at night. Oil isn't water-soluble, so even rubbing with a cloth won't necessarily get it all off. After cleansing, a cotton pad with toner makes oily skin feel & look even cleaner, then light, oil-free moisturizer to finish off. Something with the word "mattifying" in the name won't make you shinier- I like Marcelle moisturizer, and their toner & cleanser are good too- very decent drugstore brand. Maybe swap to an oil-free sunscreen, as well (Proactiv sunscreen is the best one I've found but I haven't looked that hard).

Your key words when seeking products are:
non-comedogenic (doesn't cause clogged pores), oil free, shine-free, mattifying, refining, and "for oily skin".

Once a week or so, you can exfoliate with a gentle clay scrub- you'll be surprised how nice your skin looks after. I like PHisoderm masque as a scrub. It's slightly drying, which will be good for your oily skin. Follow with toner & moisturizer.

A little oil-free face powder (applied with a sponge or brush) or blotting paper will cut the shine during the day, too.
posted by pseudostrabismus at 2:00 PM on April 2 [1 favorite]

I've never been much for makeup, and my morning routine is washing my face with Cetaphil during my shower, then an astringent (toner?), a peroxide cream for breakouts, and a moisturizer with sunscreen. You might find your skin happier just by switching to something that's intended as a moisturizer first and a sunscreen second.

I like the Clean & Clear stuff, but mostly because it's usually the least expensive brand and works well enough. :) That seems to minimize the breakouts, and my skin feels pretty nice. I probably should be doing something similar before bedtime, but I'm lazy that way.
posted by epersonae at 2:05 PM on April 2

Some of your breakouts may be the result of not removing your sunscreen. I'd suggest using Neutrogena's Fresh Foaming Cleanser (or something similar) to do this. It's gentle, like Cetaphil, but does a much, much better job of taking off sunscreen, makeup, etc.

I don't think toners are necessary for everyone, but I use Neutrogena's Pore Refining Toner because it helps to keep my finicky, sensitive skin fairly clear. YMMV.
posted by LittleKnitting at 2:05 PM on April 2

I have a similar skin care regime. The only thing I do differently is I use the oil-cleansing method on my face twice a day. Since I cut out all the extra skin-care crap (and cut out sugars and grains from my diet) the compliments on my skin have increased. It is amazing because I have always had pretty shitty skin.

Anyway, in the oil cleansing method you mix together equal parts jojoba and castor oil, smear it on your dry, unwashed face (over makeup and all of that), then place a really hot washcloth on your face for thirty seconds to a minute, until it cools down. Do that one to three times. Then wipe off with the damp washcloth. It really does work wonderfully.
posted by schroedinger at 2:07 PM on April 2

I love, love, love Cetaphil. Once I started using it, I noticed a marked difference in my skin. It was always really dry right after cleansing but then oily the rest of the time. The Cetaphil stopped the dryness completely and I've noticed that the oiliness has decreased as well.

As for not needing to cleanse at all because you don't wear make-up: think again. If you go outside, your skin is picking up contaminants from the air, from cars, from the ducts in the buildings you frequent. Even if you don't ever leave your house, your skin is getting dirty during the day. Plus, you really should clean off the moisturizer and sunscreen you use during the day, and end your day with a clean slate. Your pillow will be cleaner and you might notice fewer breakouts.

I don't think you need to get complicated, just do a bit more than you're doing now.
posted by cooker girl at 2:08 PM on April 2

Also, why do you use such a high SPF? The concoctions required to get that into solution will definitely result in oily skin with clogged pores.

Broad generalization here. I have oily, acne-prone skin and use a high SPF sunscreen because I'm on retinoid therapy. I use the Neutrogena dry-touch problems and have had no issues with it causing breakouts. If you have oily skin, a retinoid is about the only thing I would consider adding to your routine. I'm currently loving Tazorac (a prescription product) but you could even start out with something over the counter like Roc Retinols.

Also this:
Your key words when seeking products are:
non-comedogenic (doesn't cause clogged pores), oil free, shine-free, mattifying, refining, and "for oily skin".
It certainly is helpful to look for those terms on products but keep in mind that none of those terms are regulated by the cosmetics industry so just because something says it's oil-free doesn't mean your skin won't like it. (i.e. alllllll the MAC makeup products that claim to be oil-free but will break you out before you leave the house)
posted by notjustfoxybrown at 2:11 PM on April 2

I use the Neutrogena dry-touch problems ...
The last word should say "products,"
posted by notjustfoxybrown at 2:13 PM on April 2

Mathowie uses Kiehl's. Nuff said.

I wash my face with nothing but water and I only get spots after I cave and use some sort of soap/cleanser on my face. Cleanser may help you, but it may not. It's all about what's right for your skin, not letting people bully you into thinking you have a greasy gross dirty face.
posted by Juliet Banana at 2:15 PM on April 2

You need to ask yourself what your skincare goal is. Since you don't wear makeup, you sound fairly low-maintenance. Does the way your skin looks now bother you, or just your friend?

I think, if you have no makeup to remove, you're probably fine with water only.

Toning and cleansing will not get rid of the blackheads on your nose. Biore strips will, but they are rough on sensitive skin. A facial with extractions will, but it's hard to find an esthetician who uses products appropriate for sensitive skin.

If you want to try something different, you can try the oil cleansing method. It's messy, but it does clean your skin, and is extra gentle. It may loosen a few blackheads, but not all of them.

Or try Cetaphil. It is cheap, so you're not out much if you dislike it.
posted by jillsy_sloper at 2:16 PM on April 2

I don't know, the best my skin ever looked was when all I did was splash water on it every morning in the shower and every night before I went to bed. Occasionally I would try out a face cleanser because of all the people saying "Oh my god, you NEED to use soap!" and it would just make me break out.

Then again, that was before I wised up to things like "skin cancer" and "wrinkles in your mid-twenties," and now I've added SPF moisturizer (AM) and regular moisturizer (PM). I've still only been using water to wash my face (unless I put on more makeup than just a dab of concealer here and there), but my skin isn't so great these days. Coincidentally, I bought some Cetaphil yesterday and will try using it nightly for a while. In short, I'll be following this question and paying close attention to the answers.

I guess I've always thought of skin as a self-regulating kind of thing. But maybe if you're putting on layers of sunscreen and such, you need to do something to compensate. It's one of those things that's hard to experiment with, because you don't want to walk around with giant red welts on your face for weeks if you make a mistake.
posted by pluckemin at 2:26 PM on April 2

As someone else with oily skin, I don't quite understand why you bother with the moisturizer at all. Your skin produces its own moisture in excess of what you need to keep it from drying out or aging faster. When I've tried using a moisturizer, even one that is supposed to not make my skin oil, it looks substantially oilier.

I have kept my skin looking great just by doing the following:
- I wash my face when I shower in the morning, and when I sleep at night. I use a tea tree oil liquid soap to do this. (Tea tree oil is an anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and anti-viral, so it can get rid of a number of causes of acne.)
- I use a tea tree oil toner after washing it.
- I do *not* moisturize.
- I do not put straight-up sunscreen on my face, since it makes it oily. Instead, I use a liquid foundation with SPF 15 in it. (Personally, I use MAC but there are tons of foundations with SPF in them.) If I know I'm going to be outside a lot, I will apply an SPF 50 primer to my face after the toner and before the foundation. (I don't know if companies other than MAC make something like this.) The one that I use doesn't dramatically make my skin look oilier, but it does look a tad oilier. I'd rather use it than worry about skin cancer, though, so I deal.

I get tons of compliments on my skin. I really recommend you stop moisturizing more than anything. It's important for people with dry skin, but you're not one of them.
posted by Nattie at 2:39 PM on April 2

A dermatologist is a better resource than a friend in a salon. With sensitive skin you want gentle cleansers. Purpose facial cleanser is very gentle and effective. The Neutrogena sun blocks, especially the spray varieties are very easy on your skin and won't block your pores. Both of these products were recommended to me by my dermatologist. She had a list with a bunch of others, those are just the ones I remember and use. If you are seeing a dermatologist next time you are in the office I would bring up the subject of skin care products and regimens.
posted by caddis at 2:40 PM on April 2

Your friend is trying to make you feel bad about yourself so you'll buy things at her salon. Don't take the bait.
posted by hardcore taters at 2:48 PM on April 2

A dermatologist is a better resource than a friend in a salon.
Just wanted to stop back in to agree with this. Everything simply does not work for everyone's skin and the dermatologist can be a great guide. For instance, tea tree oil, which works beautifully for lots of people, gave me a rash that took weeks to clear up and while I can use sunscreen on its own, any makeup with sunscreen in it makes me break out. Talk to the pros. You might actually only need one or two visits.
posted by notjustfoxybrown at 2:53 PM on April 2

The only reason to use a moisturizer is if you have dry skin generally, or are specifically targeting dry patches, or are using a face wash that strips the moisture out of your skin and you want to replace it.

In my experience Biore strips and the like for clogged pores on the nose are worse than useless. You could try an exfoliant (I use Kiehl's Facial Fuel Face Scrub because it smells good and has a little bit of a zing, but St. Ives is just as good, and in any event almost anybody will give you samples so you can try out a whole bunch until you settle on one you like) with plenty of warm water. Wash your face as normal (don't use soap ever on your face, or even on your body to be frank), preferably in a hot shower, then work the exfoliant in circles around your nose, then rinse with cold water (to shrink the pores).

I would also strongly recommend you go to your nearest Clinique or Clarins (or whatever) counter and get somebody there to help you out. Yeah, they want to sell their product, but they actually do know what they're on about and the stuff does work. Plus they'll give you loads of samples.
posted by turgid dahlia at 3:33 PM on April 2

Your friend is trying to make you feel bad about yourself so you'll buy things at her salon

This is possibly true but clogged pores around the nose can be pretty unsightly, and they're pretty easy to fix.
posted by turgid dahlia at 3:34 PM on April 2

Nthing Cetaphil Cleanser. Very gentle and inexpensive. (Note - get the Gentle Cleanser for All Skin Types and NOT the Daily Facial Cleanser for Normal to Oily skin, the latter is too harsh and perfumey) Just add some to that soft cloth.
posted by delladlux at 3:38 PM on April 2

I also have oily, sensitive skin (with some random ingredient allergies) and my routine is pretty much identical to yours with one exception. At night I wash my face with the anti-acne version of Neutrogena's Fresh Foaming Cleanser. My skin feels nice after washing with water but it feel amazing after using the cleanser. I'm having a lot less breakouts since I switched to this stuff, almost zero blemishes. That thick sunblock is rather cloggy and harsh on already oily skin and you do need to do something to clean it off properly.

If you're getting actual pimples then you may want to look at your moisteriser too as that could be contributing. When I was younger and oilier I used the Clean and Clear balancing moisteriser which was great at stopping my skin looking or feeling oily while also stopping it from drying out. Skin that's appropriately moisturised but not oily just feels good, so it may be worth messing with. Try a cleanser first though, that might be enough.

As for the rest, toners and rubs and whatever bleh. Your friend has obviously bought into their necessity simply based on her job, I wouldn't go there unless you're actively unhappy with your skin. I'm 33, am regularly taken for 25 and have great skin so a simple routine can work.
posted by shelleycat at 3:56 PM on April 2

The only reason to use a moisturizer is if you have dry skin generally

Actually no. An appropriate non-oil-based moisterised used on oily skin will go a long long way towards preventing said oil. This way the skin is hydrated so doesn't feel the need to make so much oil, which in turn makes it less irritated leading again to less oil. I always know if I forgot to moisturise because of the big oil slick that builds on on my forehead two or three hours later.

I wish I'd figured this out sooner, would have saved me from a lot of pimples when I was younger.
posted by shelleycat at 4:00 PM on April 2 [1 favorite]

A better idea than putting moisturizer on already-oily skin is to move the oil around manually to the places that need it (using one of those oil soaking-up paper napkin face things).
posted by turgid dahlia at 4:01 PM on April 2

Actually, now that I've reflected on that for three seconds, while the idea is technically sound, it's pretty gross, so go with what shellycat said instead.
posted by turgid dahlia at 4:02 PM on April 2

Cetaphil and Dove are very gentle cleansers. I get complimented on my skin all the time (I'm 42, for reference), and I mostly just use Dove, but Cetaphil is my alternate.

I also wouldn't put just straight sunscreen on my face, because faces are different than bodies. While I do think that all the toners, moisturizers, primers, etc. are overkill, facial skin is pretty sensitive, and living down South I need sunblock too. I have found that my pores don't clogged if I wear a good foundation with sunblock in it, so now I rarely go out of the house without it.

I'll use bare mineral products for fancy, dressed-up occasions, but for every day I have found Almay foundation very gentle (and "dermatologist recommended"). I like Almay, and became even more sold on it when I met some older ladies who swore by it, who also all had awesome skin. It's not as expensive as Clinique or Clarins, and you can get it in the local drugstore, too.

I do agree with everyone saying that a dermatologist would be best, but I've never been to one personally.
posted by misha at 4:08 PM on April 2

Your friend is trying to make you feel bad about yourself so you'll buy things at her salon.

I doubt that.
posted by caddis at 4:14 PM on April 2

Yeah, especially since the OP says She isn’t trying to sell me anything- her salon doesn’t stock Dermatologica or Clarens .
posted by phatkitten at 4:44 PM on April 2

Yes, every part of your body should be washed with more than water, to get rid of bacteria if not grime and makeup. Cetaphil is very gentle.
posted by Houstonian at 5:18 PM on April 2

Mrs Jones keeps a box of baking soda in the medicine cabinet. Wet face with water, grab some BS, mix it in one hand into a paste, use it as an exfolient. RInse face, add (v. cheap) moisturizer. Standard soap she does not use- dries out the skin, she says. (It's a European thing.) YMMV, but her skin is magnificent. (Also does sun screen, also eschews makeup.)
posted by IndigoJones at 5:55 PM on April 2 [1 favorite]

I *adore* suki products. so much so, i buy them for ridiculous amounts of money! over and over and over again. they're the only thing that keeps my skin somewhat normal looking.

but, i say go as basic as your skin will let you.
posted by bellbellbell at 10:54 PM on April 2

I will second all that pseudostrabismus is saying, and add one more thing. As to the dark pores/blackheads/comedones: pore strips can sometimes pull off the top layer of skin, and around the sculptural many-planed areas of the nose, don't necessarily get a strong enough grip to do anything. Two tools: a blackhead extractor (and your alcohol-disinfected fingernail--in the end, the fanciest aesthetician at the spa will take you into a room and use her own hands for "extraction") and some sort of exfoliant scrub which contains pineapple (bromelain) or papaya (papain) extract. These are fruit enzymes which break down keratin, which clogs your pores, and they will work where manual methods do not.
posted by Tufa at 11:07 PM on April 2 [1 favorite]

Let's get something clear here, for all the people who say not to moisturize oily skin:

Oil is not moisturizer. Moisture is water, and oil is the opposite of water.
Oily skin is not necessarily moisturized- sometimes if I scrub my face super-clean but don't apply moisturizer, I get skin that is both greasy AND dry. My cheeks feel tight, my eyelids get flakey, and yet my forehead looks like a slick pool of Vaseline.
Putting something oily on dry skin can actually exacerbate dryness (imagine putting olive oil on chapped lips- they wouldn't get soft and plump, they'd just stay flakey & rough, and yet be greasy), because you're making an oil-barrier that will keep atmospheric moisture OUT instead of sealing it in.

You need to put water into your skin (by osmosis when you wash it), then before it evaporates, gently seal it in with a barrier of light moisturizer that contains even more moisturizing ingredients.

If you lightly moisturize oily skin with the right product, your skin will produce less oil and it won't feel tight or get flakey. The right product would be an oil-free, non-comedogenic, light moisturizing lotion with a runny or milky consistency (no thicker than yogurt, for sure). Oily skin that's not moisturized gets really oily in patches and breaks out.

I suspect the OP has oily buildup, though.
Moisturizer + sunscreen without any oil-soluble cleanser to remove it = greasy skin & clogged pores.

I'm suggesting very clean skin (cleanser & toner) + light moisturizer = normalized, comfortable skin.
posted by pseudostrabismus at 11:14 PM on April 2 [1 favorite]

This exact thing happened to me recently. I had a simple skin regime and other people made me doubt it. For the next three weeks I tried new products and all I got was heartache. Now I'm back to my simple routine with drugstore products (Oil of Olay) It doesn't hurt to try new things, but just remember that they aren't necessary just because they are necessary for others, like your friend.
posted by Gor-ella at 6:46 AM on April 3

Come on, you don't see this as the barber telling you you need a haircut?

If you were happy about your simple routine, why not stick with it?
posted by hardcore taters at 10:57 AM on April 3

{Pre-apology for long comment}.......I completely support pseudostrabismus' most recent answer, as it's the most accurate regarding the oil/water balance and appropriate to what seems like will work for you, while bumping up your results and not be more time consuming. As many have also said, skin is very different for everyone and you have to go with your intuition; there are too many variables to apply exact regimens widely, especially without being able to see and touch your skin.

In general though (and i'm a professional makeup educator and artist for the last 15 years), when experimenting with new products or regimens, one of the biggest mistakes is to change many things at once, which: often causes adverse reactions, you won't know what caused it, probably get frustrated with the whole process and go back to your original routine. Fast forward a year or so when you think you should diversify again, you repeat the mistake and the cycle continues.

It's best to identify your goal and try one focused product at a time, for at least 1-2 weeks. Unless you are experiencing discomfort or obviously severe effects, it is common to have a blemish or two while trying a new product (especially anti-aging/wrinkle/acid/sunscreen categories), so give it a chance to regulate before dismissing. Since you are sensitive, keep a log of your process and products; this is incredibly helpful if you decide to see a dermatologist/facialist/allergist, etc., and will streamline the investigation/problem-solving.

If you are successful with one product, integrate it and repeat process until you have achieved your skincare goals. Of course, as we age and move through several fun and exciting skin-altering hormonal waves, you will be faced with this project a few times, so a sense of humour is essential.

Regarding sunscreen, it's true that very high SPF and PA ratings aren't as significantly more effective as the numbers sound, however, if you don't react poorly to them and you are cleansing your face regularly, there aren't (m)any reasons not to use them. I like high spf's (my fave is the brand new cetaphil 50) because they innately have a slight sheen to them, which I use to my advantage with their subtle, not makeup-ey glow, like an invisible foundation if you will. If you are medium to deep in skin tone, this can be an unflattering side effect though. Second reason is total vanity---I've seen too many people (even younger than me) who don't wear sunscreen, and it shows.

And Cetaphil is fabulous. As for cleansers, it comes to personal and tactile preferences, but I'm a sucker for oil-cleansers, which break down the dirt and oil fastest, with the least effort, and since I'm lazy, are my favorites.
posted by canijusa at 4:12 AM on April 17 [1 favorite]