Varnish for my Bob Barker/Picachu table
March 16, 2009 2:29 PM Subscribe
I need to varnish or lacquer a table. But I don't know what product to use.
So I sanded, primed and painted an IKEA table. I used acrylics, which are water soluble. The current watercolor-esque look I've achieved will be ruined if I use a varnish, lacquer or shellac that is water-soluble.
What product do I need? Online links welcome. (I'm looking for a clear, shiny finish, by the way.)
So I sanded, primed and painted an IKEA table. I used acrylics, which are water soluble. The current watercolor-esque look I've achieved will be ruined if I use a varnish, lacquer or shellac that is water-soluble.
What product do I need? Online links welcome. (I'm looking for a clear, shiny finish, by the way.)
Hmm. What about a glass top?
(Seal it down around the edge so nothing ever dribs up under.)
posted by mu~ha~ha~ha~har at 3:21 PM on March 16, 2009
(Seal it down around the edge so nothing ever dribs up under.)
posted by mu~ha~ha~ha~har at 3:21 PM on March 16, 2009
Acrylic paints are water soluble even after curing? Just asking, never dealt with them.
Shellac is usually used in cases like this because it has good ahesion to a lot of different surfaces and finishes. You can find it in spray cans, or you can buy it and make your own (it comes in flakes, you dissolve in alchohol (does alchohol dissolve acrylics?). You can apply with a spray gun or you can do it with a "pad" but the pad technique takes some practice. You can get a really excellent finish with it though, because it dries very fast which helps minimize dust blemishes.
The next choice would probably be polyurethane varnish assuming that it'll stick to the acrylic paints ok. You can brush it on, or use a wipe-on polyurethane (my choice for novices) that you apply with a rag. It can also be sprayed if properly thinned but I wouldn't bother. If you insisted on spraying I'd say to use nitrocellulose lacquer (again, assuming this won't dissolve acrylic paint, honestly I have no idea what acrylics dissolve in)
Whatever you use, I would take a couple of samples with acrylic paint on them and try that first. That'll at least tell you whether or not it'll mess up the paint you've done already.
What it WON'T tell you is how well your finish will "stick" to the paint a few years down the road.
Good luck
posted by RustyBrooks at 3:24 PM on March 16, 2009
Shellac is usually used in cases like this because it has good ahesion to a lot of different surfaces and finishes. You can find it in spray cans, or you can buy it and make your own (it comes in flakes, you dissolve in alchohol (does alchohol dissolve acrylics?). You can apply with a spray gun or you can do it with a "pad" but the pad technique takes some practice. You can get a really excellent finish with it though, because it dries very fast which helps minimize dust blemishes.
The next choice would probably be polyurethane varnish assuming that it'll stick to the acrylic paints ok. You can brush it on, or use a wipe-on polyurethane (my choice for novices) that you apply with a rag. It can also be sprayed if properly thinned but I wouldn't bother. If you insisted on spraying I'd say to use nitrocellulose lacquer (again, assuming this won't dissolve acrylic paint, honestly I have no idea what acrylics dissolve in)
Whatever you use, I would take a couple of samples with acrylic paint on them and try that first. That'll at least tell you whether or not it'll mess up the paint you've done already.
What it WON'T tell you is how well your finish will "stick" to the paint a few years down the road.
Good luck
posted by RustyBrooks at 3:24 PM on March 16, 2009
Go to your neighborhood hardware store and ask what polyeurethane they recommend. I believe that's what I used when I did a similar project some years back. I used a brush-on, which I find is easier than dealing with a spray.
posted by radioamy at 4:25 PM on March 16, 2009
posted by radioamy at 4:25 PM on March 16, 2009
Best answer: Yep, just pick up a small can of satin or gloss polyurathane (I'm partial to satin for my ikea table) It's going to go on better (in my experience) if you dilute it with a bit of mineral spirits (like 50/50 or even 75 % poly) Diluting it will reduce bubbles that otherwise would stay and dry onto your table with out popping. If you dilute, put on 2-3 coats over the space of a day or so...if you live in a humid area, maybe spread it out over 2 days. Buy one of those cheapo sponge brushes and overnight/between coats you can wrap it it foil and pop it in the freezer so it doesnt dry out.
posted by johngalt at 4:34 PM on March 16, 2009
posted by johngalt at 4:34 PM on March 16, 2009
I paint furniture with acrylics all the time and use a water based clear coat over it. To be sure paint a little test piece to try it on but I've never had a problem. I like Benjamin Moore's Stays Clear because it stays clear and doesn't yellow. I like the low lustre because it doesn't show scratches, just make sure you gently stir it well to bring up the particles that make it non-glossy (gently stir so you don't make bubbles). I usually let the colored paint dry at least overnight before I put the clear coat on. I'd put several coats on for a table and use a foam brush to apply it with so you don't end up with brush lines and brush bristles in the finish.
posted by BoscosMom at 4:34 PM on March 16, 2009
posted by BoscosMom at 4:34 PM on March 16, 2009
Polyurethane is far and away the superior candidate for this job . . .easy to apply eve with brush, tough, waterproof and as glossy as you want.
posted by Neiltupper at 6:06 PM on March 16, 2009
posted by Neiltupper at 6:06 PM on March 16, 2009
Mr. 445 and I both hate the look of poly. For our table, we did a stain, then use periodic applications of linseed oil. It is waterproof and doesn't peel like a 1990 auto. We have been going about 14 years now and it looks great. Linseed oil can become dark after time on your grandmother's chest of drawers, but hasn't darkened on our table, I suspect because it is washed often.
I dump some on at night, rub in with a paper towel, leaving enough to soak in during the night. In the morning it is another wipe and it is ready to go. Because of possible spontaneous combustion, I dispose of all paper towels in the outside trash can after use. (Not sure how often it happens, just something my step dad warned against. ) I do this 3 to 4 times a year.
wife of 445supermag
posted by 445supermag at 6:47 PM on March 16, 2009
I dump some on at night, rub in with a paper towel, leaving enough to soak in during the night. In the morning it is another wipe and it is ready to go. Because of possible spontaneous combustion, I dispose of all paper towels in the outside trash can after use. (Not sure how often it happens, just something my step dad warned against. ) I do this 3 to 4 times a year.
wife of 445supermag
posted by 445supermag at 6:47 PM on March 16, 2009
Because of possible spontaneous combustion, I dispose of all paper towels in the outside trash can after use.
Any combustion would be caused by heat build up as the product hardens on those rags. You've helped yourself by taking the risk of fire outside, but you haven't really done anything about the risk of fire itself.
Instead of wadding your used rags and paper towels up into a pile of potential BOOM!, find a spot outside where you can hang them or spread them out until they dry, and then dispose of them responsibly* (ie, take them to your city's household chemical disposal facility).
-----------------
*Do as notyou says, not as notyou does.
posted by notyou at 7:28 PM on March 16, 2009
Any combustion would be caused by heat build up as the product hardens on those rags. You've helped yourself by taking the risk of fire outside, but you haven't really done anything about the risk of fire itself.
Instead of wadding your used rags and paper towels up into a pile of potential BOOM!, find a spot outside where you can hang them or spread them out until they dry, and then dispose of them responsibly* (ie, take them to your city's household chemical disposal facility).
-----------------
*Do as notyou says, not as notyou does.
posted by notyou at 7:28 PM on March 16, 2009
Use latex polyurethane if you don't want a yellowish cast. It doesn't last as long and will need new coats every couple of years, but is the only way to go if you don't want a yellow tint over your cool painting. (My coffee table is painted with acrylic apple barrel type paints over black enamel paint, which was probably a bad idea. I've mostly used brush on latex poly, but have also used this spray stuff, and it's lasted many years and only looks kind of crappy right now. (But I scrape the laptop around on it, put my feet on it, have two kids and a nephew with a purple permanent marker, so, all in all, pretty successful.)
posted by artychoke at 9:47 PM on March 16, 2009
posted by artychoke at 9:47 PM on March 16, 2009
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posted by Thorzdad at 3:14 PM on March 16, 2009