What's it like in the Cream City?

March 11, 2009 1:16 PM

What's it like to live in Milwaukee? MeFi residents of the Cream City, please advise! Specific details/questions follow.

So, one of the doctoral programs at UWM has extended me an amazing offer for next fall. YAY! I'm very strongly considering (and, at this point, leaning towards) taking their offer. I've done a bunch of research about the city, and I like a lot of what I see. My husband and I currently live in Pittsburgh, and I'm detecting a pretty similar vibe going on in Milwaukee. Neither of us has ever set foot in Milwaukee, though, and I would love to hear about what it's like to live there from current or past residents. Some example questions:

What are the best and worst parts about living in Milwaukee?
Is the snow and cold really as bad as people say?
Is it a mostly safe city?
Which neighborhoods should I totally avoid, keeping in mind that I will probably need to stay within reasonable distance of UWM. (A lot of people seem to refer to areas as "between this and this block," but I'm finding it a little hard to picture right now)
Which neighborhoods are great?
How bad, in general, is traffic in Milwaukee? I'm coming from the land of bridges and tunnels, so I'm assuming anything will be better than here.
What's the job market like in software/IT there? This is especially important, as my husband will need to find a new job when we move.
Any experiences with UWM as a school that people might want to share? I'll also be teaching, so I am interested in the general student population there.

If there are other relevant things that I haven't asked about (great library system? Amazing/diversity of restaurants? These festivals I keep hearing about? Lake Michigan?) please feel free to talk about those as well. Thanks for any and all responses. I'm very excited about the opportunity and the chance to live somewhere new, but I'm also feeling a bit nervous about moving across the country.

posted by theantikitty to society & culture (16 comments total)

Having lived in Pittsburgh, but only visited Milwaukee, I can't help much. But! I can say pretty clearly that traffic is Pittsburgh is considerably worse, and that if you like Pittsburgh, you'll like Milwaukee. (I did.)

Also, a related but completely non-factual time-waster from an FFP a few months back: a fake tourism video for Milwaukee.
posted by Damn That Television at 1:25 PM on March 11

I live in Milwaukee. Just moved here last summer, but from Madison, so it wasn't a big change. I like it pretty well. The area around UWM is very nice and walkable. When looking for apartments the neighborhoods is called the east side. Areas of Riverwest are pretty cool too, but there are some sections of Riverwest that I wouldn't recommend. You can walk to UWM from either of those areas.

The snow and cold suck, but I don't think it will be a huge difference from Pittsburgh. It is rare to get above freezing from Dec-Mar, but it does happen sometimes. This year hasn't been exceptionally bad, but we did get a lot of snow in November, which was early for us.

Traffic is not bad, but really depends on where and when you are going. There are times, 4-6PM that 94 is backed up regularly from downtown west. But if you live near UWM you'll be going against that anyway.

UWM student population is pretty good, not as smart or highly ranked as students at UW-Madison, but it is the next best UW campus.

I like the libraries here. My neighborhood branch is very nice, and the Central branch is an amazing old building. Requests and holds seem to move along quickly.

Feel free to contact me if you have other questions or want more specifics.
posted by sulaine at 1:29 PM on March 11

The best part of living in Milwaukee is all of the festivals. All summer long it seems like there is a festival going on down at the lakefront. The Medical College of Wisconsin has a nice collection of them here.

The worst part of living in Milwaukee is the snow and cold. The east side, without a garage to park your car in, is a nightmare.

Traffic isn't bad at all. The Marquette Interchange being finished has really helped.

posted by fellion at 1:41 PM on March 11

Small anecdote. I used to date a guy from Milwaukee and I loved the place for sometimes visits. People were nice, food was great, beer was pletiful and the bars were fun and friendly [he lived near Brady Street and near the lake]. It was close to Chicago if you needed access to a big big city [or a giant airport] but I mostly liked hanging out there. I have been to every branch of the Milwaukee Public Library and did a little photo essay about it that you might enjoy.
posted by jessamyn at 1:42 PM on March 11

- What are the best and worst parts about living in Milwaukee?

Best: the lake, the festivals, the cafes/bars/restos, easy access to fun cities like Chicago & Madison, people are generally friendly.

Worst: segregation is evident, crummy neighborhoods around Marquette & south side, annoying Midwestern accent (ha), Wisconsin is fairly unhealthy (e.g., lots of overeating and alcoholism, drunk driving, etc.)

- Is the snow and cold really as bad as people say?

Yeah, mostly because of the infamous 'lake effect.' Just roll with it. Buy some skis.

- Is it a mostly safe city?

There are pockets that are shady, but for the most part, it's safe.

- Which neighborhoods should I totally avoid, keeping in mind that I will probably need to stay within reasonable distance of UWM. (A lot of people seem to refer to areas as "between this and this block," but I'm finding it a little hard to picture right now)

Avoid the Marquette area and the south side.

- Which neighborhoods are great?

The east side, by UWM and the lake.

- How bad, in general, is traffic in Milwaukee? I'm coming from the land of bridges and tunnels, so I'm assuming anything will be better than here.

Not that bad near UWM. Mostly the suburbanites gotta deal with the traffic drama, especially those living in the western suburbs.

- What's the job market like in software/IT there? This is especially important, as my husband will need to find a new job when we move.

Sorry, dunno.

- Any experiences with UWM as a school that people might want to share? I'll also be teaching, so I am interested in the general student population there.

I attended undergrad there and loved it. Please email me with any specific q's you have.
posted by December at 2:16 PM on March 11

I grew up in Milwaukee and moved to the Chicago area two years ago. I visit frequently. Never been to Pittsburgh, so I can't compare.

What are the best and worst parts about living in Milwaukee?

Best: It feels like being in a smallish town, but you've got lots of stuff to do. See abovementioned festivals.
Worst: Lingering racial tension and segregation. Downtown has been revitalized, but the inner city has remained devastated since the 1970s.

Is the snow and cold really as bad as people say?

Depends what you compare it to. You get a lot of damp cold in Milwaukee, but also the occasional reprieve of a dry, sunny day.

Is it a mostly safe city? Which neighborhoods should I totally avoid, keeping in mind that I will probably need to stay within reasonable distance of UWM. (A lot of people seem to refer to areas as "between this and this block," but I'm finding it a little hard to picture right now) Which neighborhoods are great?

Around UWM, I'd definitely stay east of the Milwaukee River unless you're pretty adventurous. (Riverwest has an artsy vibe, but also armed robberies.) Shorewood is a nice suburb that is adjacent to UWM. North of that is Whitefish Bay, not-so-affectionately called "White Folks Bay" because of the perception of DWB stops. Anything east of UWM is going to be pretty damned expensive (but safe). I lived a few blocks north and west of the campus and paid $1100/mo for a 3 bedroom upper, which was pretty average. Obviously, the closer you get to campus, the more college kids you're going to have to deal with. Most of them live south of campus. I love the area around Brady Street that jessamyn mentioned, and it's a really easy bus ride to UWM (also, there's a dedicated bike path). It's a good compromise of safety and affordability, plus there is proximity to the lake and really fucking good waffles (@ Brewed Awakenings)

Further afield is Bay View, which is a safe neighborhood south of downtown that has been recently yuppified to some extent. There is bus service to UWM.

How bad, in general, is traffic in Milwaukee? I'm coming from the land of bridges and tunnels, so I'm assuming anything will be better than here.

Much better than any other large city I've been to. If you live on the east side and work at UWM, there's little reason to own a car.

What's the job market like in software/IT there? This is especially important, as my husband will need to find a new job when we move.

My husband moved to Milwaukee from Chicago in 2005 and found an IT job within a week. When that one didn't work out, he found another one rather quickly. (He was in network engineering at the time, btw.) We've been looking at moving back to the area and he's found several jobs he's interested in, but the pay is lower in Milwaukee than it is in Chicago so we're going to have to make some hard decisions there.
posted by desjardins at 2:19 PM on March 11

nthing festivals . . . I know, every place has festivals, but Summerfest is really a kick-ass one. I am from Chicago, and Summerfest is way better than anything we get out here- and cheaper. Totally worth the trip. Lollapalooza in chicago is a total ripoff in my opinion.

I am actually planning to apply to MCW this upcoming cycle. It appeals to me because I would like to go somewhere different, but not too far from home. So I guess my perspective is that I've lived kinda near it my whole life, visited it occasionally, and now think of it as a place i might like to live. for whatever that's worth.
posted by lblair at 2:43 PM on March 11

I moved from Milwaukee to Chicago in 2001, so my experiences aren't as fresh, but I totally agree with what's above.

Some extras:

Yes, the snow and cold are bad. Here's a recent question on how to handle the winter.

UWM is a working-class, commuter school, though more kids live on or near campus than when I went. I never met anyone from out-of-state in my program, which I didn't think of as odd until I moved.

The Milwaukee Art Museum is gorgeous.

The accent is fun. Very nasal. Here's the Miss Pronouncer guide on how to pronounce city names, etc., and here's some unique words that you might hear.
posted by limeswirltart at 3:07 PM on March 11

One more thing: I know that the UW System is going through budget problems (PDF), but I don't know specifics.
posted by limeswirltart at 3:31 PM on March 11

I'm born and raised north of Milwaukee, now in Chicago. Noticing a trend in these answers? Milwaukee's a great little city, and getting better every year, but it's still really kept that small-town mentality. And there's good and bad things about that. I would agree with everything said already, but just mention that you shouldn't discount the suburbs for living. The traffic getting to UWM or downtown is going to be fine, and your husband might very well end up finding a tech job in one of the burbs, or even a satellite city to the west or north.

You asked about diversity of restaurants - I would say...eh. Not so much. Some really great places along Brady Street and definitely some up-and-coming places in the the Third Ward. Speaking of which, if you're into condo living, that's a place to look. Young professionals, boutique-y places, that kind of thing.

Basically, Milwaukee has a long way to go, but I love it anyway. And Chicago is an hour-and-a-half train ride away, so you have access to lots of great stuff here without having to pay the Chicago living expenses.
posted by bibbit at 4:22 PM on March 11

It's a hidden gem. Like Barcelona. Historical, a gorgeous waterfront, lots of ethnic neighborhoods, including the Polish one in the souith. Great museums, theatres, and restaurants. A bar and a church on every corner. People are Midwest-friendly. The seasons (especially the delicious fall) are distinct. When the ice on Lake Michigan cracks in the spring, it's a dream. The countryside is only a half hour away. I love it, even having just moved there from Los Angeles. I'm back in LA and I think of Milwaukee all the time.
posted by holdenjordahl at 4:25 PM on March 11

(Disclaimer, born and raised Milwaukee)

What are the best and worst parts about living in Milwaukee?
The best thing for me is that there are a lot of unique neighborhoods and a real good revitalization of independent bars/cafes/restaurants
The worst is probably the long winters and the 'midwestern' stereotype we get held to

Is the snow and cold really as bad as people say?
It's snowy... It's cold...

Is it a mostly safe city?
It is mostly safe - some of the neighborhoods towards the inner city can be rough, and even on the east side near UWM there's a lot of muggings, cars being broken into, etc. To me it feels pretty standard for a larger city and I feel comfortable most everywhere that I go.

Which neighborhoods should I totally avoid, keeping in mind that I will probably need to stay within reasonable distance of UWM. (A lot of people seem to refer to areas as "between this and this block," but I'm finding it a little hard to picture right now)
Riverwest, west of the river near UWM, as mentioned in other posts can go either way, and it goes down hill from there until you get much further west - then it starts improving again. The inner city, essentially - it's the same deal south of downtown.

Which neighborhoods are great?
I loved living on the east side near UWM when I was going to school - you can't go wrong with anything east of the river and north of downtown. In general you'll want heat included and off street parking (Shorewood, near UWM has strict street parking rules). Cheaper neighborhoods would be Bayview, West Allis, Wauwatosa - all would be a bus ride or car ride. Parking on campus is a pain, but there are satellite parking lots with shuttles. If you're teaching they may have some special options for you.

How bad, in general, is traffic in Milwaukee? I'm coming from the land of bridges and tunnels, so I'm assuming anything will be better than here.
As already said, not bad at all.

What's the job market like in software/IT there? This is especially important, as my husband will need to find a new job when we move.
Like everywhere else, it's rough right now. I've got some IT friends that have been looking for a few months - but there's one friend who was laid off and hired on to a new job all in the same week.

Any experiences with UWM as a school that people might want to share? I'll also be teaching, so I am interested in the general student population there.
I went to UWM and worked on campus as an undergrad. I am currently enrolled for grad school part time. I like the campus, and for grad school there's not a lot of brick and mortar options in the area. The school is primarily a commuter school. For me, it was a challenge to feel connected when I was spending so much time looking for parking spaces and worrying about getting to work on time. Once I got involved on campus, it made a major difference to the experience.
posted by merganp at 6:46 PM on March 11

I went to college in Milwaukee (at the Milwaukee Institute of Art and Design). I absolutely LOVED it. After graduation my husband and I moved so he could go to grad school and we both miss Milwaukee terribly. We constantly wonder when we can move back there.

Things I absolutely love about Milwaukee and always make sure we go to when in town:

Kopp's Frozen Custard - the burgers are amazing and so is the frozen custard. Totally worth it.

Pizza Shuttle - Apparently it's the #1 independent pizza restaurant in the U.S.

Milwaukee Public Market - I love the falafels and the caramel apples you can get during the fall

Gallery Nights - Every month I think it is they have a gallery night in the third ward. Various galleries and business open for it. It's great.

We lived down near MIAD, which is right by the Summerfest grounds. Since we've moved they've added a ton of really awesome little shops around there. They put in an Urban Outfitters, but I really love the local shops. I always insist on stopping in Juju.

The one thing I hate about Milwaukee is that there isn't any sort of smoking ban. I live in Illinois now and so I do hate that aspect.

But still, I'd move back there in a heartbeat.
posted by Becko at 7:30 PM on March 11 [1 favorite has favorites]

I too went to college in Milwaukee (but not UWM), and I stayed there for 10 years afterwards. It's a great city. Like holdenjordahl says, it's a hidden gem -- people go there expecting rusting beer vats and the accents from Fargo, and they end up visiting a truly beautiful, urbane city. I moved to San Francisco, and I still find myself missing Milwaukee regularly.

The good about Milwaukee is that, for its size, there's plenty to do -- culture is well represented, there are the oft-discussed festivals, nature is close at hand, dining is very good.

The bad thing about Milwaukee is that the suburbs don't share a lot of what makes Milwaukee diverse, progressive and interesting. Think of Milwaukee County as its own autonomous blue state, with the surrounding suburbs as red states.

I don't think the snow's that bad. I mean, this year the snow was bad, but it was bad in Chicago, too. Milwaukee generally knows how to keep the streets clear when it snows, so the city doesn't shut down, it just becomes this cold, bundled-up place. What they don't tell you about Milwaukee is that the summers are hot and humid and spring and fall are mild, so it's not really the snow -- it's just that each of the seasons are, shall we say, well represented.

I would recommend living near the lake -- whether you're in the fashionable East Side (actually the northeast side), the Third Ward (the former downtown industrial district, now lofts), the blue-collar southeast side, or even the near northern or southern suburbs by the lake (Shorewood and Cudahy), they're all nice, safe places. Going to UWM, you almost definitely want to live on the northern East Side; you can walk to work, and any number of cool little independent shops along Oakland St., Downer St. or Brady St.

Traffic isn't bad. Milwaukee's a weird city in that it's both drivable and walkable.

There are also plenty of jobs in IT, although my understanding is that getting a job is hard everywhere. Milwaukee tends to be fairly well-connected for a community of its size.

I think you'll enjoy Milwaukee. Good luck.
posted by eschatfische at 7:50 AM on March 12

These are amazing, terrific, very helpful answers. Thank you so much, everyone. I'm sure I will be looking at this thread over and over when it comes time to actually move. I do have some other options to consider, but most of them are in the middle of noooowhere. Milwaukee is sounding like a paradise in comparison, and I'd really love to live there.

Oh, and thanks for the heads up about funding, limeswirltart. Thankfully, the part of the deal at UWM that is so amazing is the funding. I believe it's guaranteed for the length of my degree.
posted by theantikitty at 9:13 AM on March 12

I moved out of Milwaukee last year, but will be moving back soon. I'll just cover things I don't see mentioned above.

Personally, if you're going to live on the East Side, I'd look for a place south of North Avenue. The Upper East Side is cool, but it seems like there are some giant pockets of college students experiencing freedom for the first time. The Lower East Side gets it to, but seems to have far more grad students/workers/etc, making the area a little less wild most of the time.

If you like any sport but football, there are plenty of opportunities to see games for cheap.

The traffic is really pretty decent, especially once you figure out your way around.

As far as the school, it's underrated. Many of the students are people who started at another school took some time off and then decided to return to school (the average age of undergrads while I was there was 27). The nice thing about that is that some of the students are more focused than your typical college student. The one complaint (but it's more of an undergrad one), is that the students are less attached to the school than if they lived in a college town. A large portion of the student body commutes to school each day, and so the campus can be somewhat dead on nights and weekends.

Every IT person I know that has looked for a job has been able to find one in either Milwaukee or Madison. Unfortunately, I think more of the openings are in Madison.

If you do move to Milwaukee... Call for a Metafilter meetup and get to know some people right away.
posted by drezdn at 10:01 AM on April 4