Things to do in Bakersfield

January 21, 2009 5:35 PM

That's it, I'm going to Bakersfield. Tell me what to do there.

It bothers me that one of my favorite living musicians--the guy who wrote the song I got my username from--plays every Monday night a few hours from my home and I've never been there. Furthermore, a lot of my favorite country acts are loosely associated with Bakersfield. I really want to go see Red play, and visit the Crystal Palace, and... there's the problem. I have no idea what else to do there.

When I try to sell my friends on the idea of going down for a long weekend, they always raise their eyebrows and say, "Really?" So I need some help selling them.

I love small cities, largely because they often have awesome secrets. Where's the underground music/theatre/poetry/art scene? I'm obviously interested in music, but I'm also interested in just general farting around. Folk art festivals? Museums? I've heard talk of Basque food? Metafilter meetup?

Oh, and if you have any recommendations for a cheap place to stay that's not a Super 8, that's also great. Any charming guest houses or bed and breakfasts?

Thanks.

posted by roll truck roll to travel & transportation (13 comments total)

I've never been, but I've heard of the Noriega Hotel for dinner. One seating at 7pm, family style Basque.
posted by oneirodynia at 6:59 PM on January 21

the only thing i know about it is that the area is a huge speed trap for people going to LA, drive slow
posted by NGnerd at 7:17 PM on January 21 [1 favorite]

My husband went to law school there. We liked the burgers at the Golden Ox for quick casual dining.

Basque food is indeed the big thing, but I'll let someone more informed than me make any recommendations.
posted by GaelFC at 7:25 PM on January 21

It's not exactly authentic local cuisine, but I really enjoyed Valentien. I'm guessing it would be the opposite of the Crystal Palace. I'm pretty sure Benji's is the Basque restaurant I ate at and enjoyed as well. Be ready to eat, they bring out a whole spread of things with your dinner order.
posted by mandymanwasregistered at 10:38 PM on January 21

Bakersfield girl here! I haven't lived there in a while, but I used to be up there about twice a month. Still have friends and family in town, so if you want specifics that I can't supply, let me know and I'll ask around.

Really, it depends on what sorts of things you want to do and how long you'll be there. If you're planning on going to the Crystal Palace (a really good night out, btw), you're going to be pretty centrally situated to both the 99 Fwy and some of the main strips in town.

If you're interested in the local arts scene (yes, there is one), I'd ask around at some of the coffee shops downtown. The main drag in downtown Bakersfield is Chester Avenue, and there's a changing cluster of coffee shops/art spaces/alt rock clubs in the gently crumbling early 20th century brick storefronts. If you want more specifics, I'll ask around, but if you just take a bit of a wander in the areas off Chester Avenue around 34th street, you'll be OK.

Basque food - yes, definitely. Noriegas is pretty good. Ask ten Bakersfield people who has the best Basque in town and you'll get ten answers. I grew up going to the places in East Bako - Narducci's and Woolgrowers. For atmosphere, you can't beat Narducci's - it's in an old late Victorian hotel on 19th street in East Bakersfield. If it doesn't suit you, Woolgrowers is the next street over on the same block, so you could leave your car in the same lot.) Be forewarned, though... East Bako is ROUGH. Parts of it are aspiring to be Hamsterdam from the Wire rough, and are occasionally succeeding. Even so, the cops patrol the areas around the Basque places, so it's safer than most parts of East Bako.

Honkytonk bar par excellence in town is, in my experience, Trouts. It's on North Chester, just over the Kern River, on the outskirts of Oildale.

Best chicken fried steak/tri tip in town is farther down on N Chester, at a place called Chris'. It used to be the Friendly Cafe. They mostly serve truckers (and locals), so they open at three/four in the morning and shut at about that time in the afternoon. Worth the drive. Again, Oildale has a couple of rough spots here and there, so lock your car.

Dewars is a local landmark. Family owned ice cream parlour and home made candy shop that's been open since... oh gawd... ever. That old timey equipment and the soda pull stuff? That's original, they didn't buy it in. They've opened a new branch of the place, but the original Dewars from my childhood is on Eye Street, not far from the intersection of Chester and California Ave.

Keep your eyes peeled when you're at any and all of these places to see if anything is advertised. Bako is a very family oriented town - lots of church bbqs and community fundraisers. People are also pretty friendly. If you show up to a local deep pit bbq and aren't all LOLHicks, you might be surprised at how many genuine invites you get to go water skiing or bowling or just out and about. Whatever you do, keep in mind that people in Bako know that Bako is a bit hicked out and a bit of a backwater. It's their backwater, though, so they can make fun of it, but you need to be a bit restrained if you join in on the bashing. Not that you were planning on bashing, but plenty do. It's something that I think people don't realise can be a bit sensitive for Bako folks. Being aware of that little sore point might make the difference between making a real friend there or just having someone buy you a beer. Just sayin'.

If you have a day and are interested in the development of normal towns (vs gunslinging kitch) in the American West, it might be worthwhile to head to Pioneer Village. (Evidently, they've changed the name of the place to the Kern County Museum) Instead of tearing down the old courthouse/jail in that golddust boomtown, or that old house in town, the good people of Bakersfield hauled the whole building down to a vacant lot and built a kind of composite Old West town out of it all. Sounds crazy, but it's pretty cool once you're there - even if it's just to check out the authentic old timey equipment in the pharmacy or undertakers. The schoolhouse there is allegedly haunted.

CALM is interesting if you're interested in local flora and fauna. They rehabilitate wildlife as well, so kick 'em a few bucks when you go.

Oh, and the Kern County Fair! Huge! Biggest junior livestock auction in the western US. Lots of 4H and FFA kids and their projects, tractor pulls, concerts on dinky WPA era stages, random fairway rides and scary carnies. If you can make it to Bakersfield in September, the Fair is where it's at.

Anything I missed or if you want more specifics, let me know.
posted by Grrlscout at 11:30 PM on January 21 [3 favorites]

My girlfriend is from Bakersfield and the only things I have to add to Grrlscout's is that the best pickled tongue is at either Benji's or Woolgrowers (subject to preference, as she said), and that you have to get the peanut butter candy at Dewars. Srsly, get as many pounds as you can carry. I think I went through a pound box during a single episode of Seinfeld. The other flavors are great, too, but the peanut butter is godhead.
posted by rhizome at 12:13 AM on January 22

Rhizome's dead on about the pb chews. The peppermint ones are awesome as well. The peppermint and peanut brittle ice creams at Dewars are good, too. Don't worry, you'll dance it off if you're going to the Palace.

Forgot the Melodrama, too. This is a new location for the Melodrama, so I can't vouch for it personally. Corny, yes. But what do you want out of plays about Snidely Whiplash sorts of villains and heroines tied to oil derricks? ;)

There's a corporate hotel not far from the convention centre (Centennial Gardens), but I think there are some B&Bs on South H Street (kind of an antiques/funky junk shops row).
posted by Grrlscout at 3:22 AM on January 22

Just another Bakersfield native nthing Basque food, Dewars, and CALM. Those are some of the (few) fond things I remember while I growing up there.
posted by El_Marto at 3:34 AM on January 22

The city of Tehachapi, which I have only gone through a couple times, is worth the drive, I think, because it starts to get very pretty up there.

Then you just have Tonopah (either Nev. or Ariz) to see, and you've lived the Lowell George lyric.

But if you have a car, those hills are beautiful, imo.
posted by Danf at 7:35 AM on January 22

Second the Kern County Fair. The food booths are run by local non-profits (church groups, civic groups, etc) and they sell real food, not the fake stuff shoved through the sliding windows of neon-lit trailers.
posted by DandyRandy at 10:32 AM on January 22

If you're going up on the 5, there's a randomly delicious Indian joint that has signs up on the side of the road. Follow them. They're tasty. Get some samosas.
posted by klangklangston at 11:19 AM on January 22

Yay! I am from Bakingfield, and although I'm glad I no longer live there--the world is a big place!--I love going back.

Woolgrower's is the absolute best Basque food in town.
The Mint is a bar downtown. It's a dive. The drinks are super cheap and there is a patio out back to enjoy the mild weather this time of year.
The Crystal Palace is nice. I have been there to see Asleep at the Wheel play a couple of times.
CALM is funny because it's a zoo full of nocturnal animals. So you go there and it's all hot and dusty, with a wonderful hot breeze blowing around, and the animals are all asleep in the dirt. Ha ha.
Get some tri-tip. I think Johns Burgers on Oak St. has it. If they don't, get a Johns Burger. I have dreams about those things.
There are some really good antique stores in Bako. Woolworth's is my favorite. It's downtown. Lots of stuff. I always find something interesting.
Bako is full of ice cream parlors. Rosemary's, Dewars and Fosters Freeze, just to name a few.
Grand China on Ming, by Toys R Us, has awesome Chinese food. Still can't beat it and I live in Atlanta now.
Pioneer Village is neat. If you liked the movie "There Will Be Blood," you will like Pioneer Village.
The Melodrama is where I learned all the old-timey songs that make my husband cock his head and go, huh? when I sing them to our baby daughter.
If you see a roadside BBQ (what Californians say instead of "grilling") stop and buy some. You won't be disappointed.
Smiths Bakeries has the best smiley face cookies.
Try Sinaloa and Mexicali and let us know which you like better. They are both awesome when it comes to Mexican food. Jacalitos is good, too.

There is a large Seventh Day Adventist population in Bako and therefore there is a vegan cafe downtown. It is very good.

The world's most dangerous roundabout is the Garces Circle on North Chester. Drive through at your own risk.

Bakersfield is one of the friendliest places I have ever been. I think people genuinely care about one another there. On one of my trips back home, I was hit by a hit-and-run driver. I took off after him until 911 told me to stop. Upon returning to the scene of the accident, no less than 3 cars returned with me--they tried to catch the guy, too. The stayed and served as witnesses for the CHP.

Have fun!
posted by FergieBelle at 4:28 PM on January 22

Thanks a lot, everybody. I'll post pictures.
posted by roll truck roll at 5:19 PM on April 21