Grief for an old suit

November 1, 2008 12:44 AM

I've finally worn through the arse of my lovely old suit that has served me well for the previous decade. I need a new one and therefore seek advice on what to get.

The old suit was an Anthony Squires (I'm in Australia) and it was really very good. From my googling, it seems that it probably was as good as it's possible for a nearly off-the-rack suit to be, the downside being that they want AUD1300 (AUD1620 with 2 trousers) to replace it. Most of the salesmen I've talked to tell me that the Squires is up there with Armani and Zegna (AUD2500ish) quality-wise but without the brand-name premium. The mandatory Squires anecdote is that all Australian Prime Ministers since Menzies (except Keating) wore one.

I see that the median price for a non-crap suit here in Australia (Boss, Rembrandt, Studio Italia, etc) is about AUD800.

So my first request is two-fold. Is the Squires really as good as all that, i.e. is it (ignoring differences in fitment that will be dependent on the wearer) as well-made as a Zegna or Armani and will it last as long? And is it twice as good as the $800 suits seen in all the menswear stores, i.e. will it last twice as long?

I'd also like to get a Hong Kong made-to-measure suit, but I have a wedding to go to in 2 weeks and then meeting new employers a week after that. I don't believe that's enough time for a good tailor to build me a suit but feel free to tell me I'm wrong and point me to one that can!

My final question is: are there any suit outlets in Australia (specifically Adelaide) that I should be considering? If there's one you've been particularly happy with, I'd like to hear about it.

posted by polyglot to clothing, beauty, & fashion (6 comments total)

Here in the UK the turnaround time for the HK made-to-measure stuff is about 6 weeks, though it may be quicker in your location.

A good made-to-measure suit will always feel better on you. A lot of places now will mix and match on the jackets and trousers, which gets you closer to a good fit, but it still won't feel like bespoke.
posted by mandal at 3:04 AM on November 1, 2008

Do you have Marks & Spencers in Australia?
posted by popcassady at 5:46 AM on November 1, 2008

I have owned Hugo Boss suits and suits by Zegna and other companies. In my opinion there is no comparison. The difference in quality is very noticeable and becomes more so over time. If you have both, you'll find yourself reaching for the premium brand every time.

My favorite suits are Pal Zileri, Zegna, and Canali. I also highly recommend outerwear by Loro Piana.

As for where to shop, I can't help with specifics, but I buy much of my stuff at a high-end used shop. You may have something similar where you are. The place I go, a great used men's shop in Toronto (with a *terrible* website), does not carry anything older than 2 years and usually prices about 25-40% of "ticket" price. For example, I recently purchased this cashmere Zegna jacket for $600 and a $2500 Loro Piana "horsey" style jacket for $650. I regularly purchase PZ, Zegna, Etro, and other nice pieces at the shop and pay less than you would for a Boss suit off the rack. I found the store by reading a local magazine that mentioned it in a "deals in the city" type installment. If you've got a similar paper in your area, you might want to give the fashion writer/editor a call and see if they can recommend anything.
posted by Manhasset at 7:21 AM on November 1, 2008

Here's a quick rundown on the hierarchy.
posted by mandal at 8:21 AM on November 1, 2008

I have owned Hugo Boss suits and suits by Zegna and other companies. In my opinion there is no comparison.

I have Hugo Boss suits that are made with Zegna fabric. They wear the best.

Loro Piana is another can't miss. The stuff is bullet-proof and the best thing about it is it's not "fashion". It's a style (like Ralph Lauren only much better quality).
posted by Zambrano at 10:42 AM on November 1, 2008

thanks for the suggestions, everyone. We don't have marks & sparks here (noted the plug on englishcut; we have Myers and David Jones dept stores and they have no house-brand suits) and I've not found a decent second-hand shop. I'll see if anyone is offering Pal Zileri or Canali, but Zegna and Armani are just too overpriced here, at least for me. 6-8 weeks was what I'd heard quoted for a HK suit too: too long for my current circumstances :(

I still would like to hear if anyone has owned both Squires and the name-brand Italian suits and can tell me how they compare.
posted by polyglot at 3:55 PM on November 1, 2008